25 mins
Stewed Pigeons (Pigeons en Estouffade)
Recipe by Graham
Our favourite restaurant on the banks of the river Oise in France is called La Petite Rôtisserie (65, chemin de Halage, 95610 Eragny). A wood fire burns in a large brick fireplace where pigeon, quail or poussin (spring chicken weighing about 1lb - 450g) are gently spit-roasted.
For many, many years, I had avoided pigeon since my memories of it were as an extremely gamey meat that was, frankly, tough and chewy. However, emboldened by a fine bottle of St Estephe, I decided to give it a try at La Petite Rôtisserie and found it to be tender, tasty and mouth-wateringly delicious. So I asked the owner the secret and she said, quite simply, that regular basting to keep the pigeon moist was the trick.
Now I recognise that Pigeons en Estouffade (Stewed Pigeons) are not spit-roast, but the stewing method of cooking keeps them wonderfully moist and tender, so I recommend it to you - with or without a bottle of St Estephe!
Pickled Cucumber 
Pilaf Ingredients for Stewed Pigeons (Pigeons en Estouffade)
Currently displaying quantities in US Imperial Measurements
How to Cook Stewed Pigeons (Pigeons en Estouffade)
- Wrap 2 rashers (slices) of streaky bacon around each pigeon and secure with cooking string. Melt the butter in a pan, add the pigeons and cook for 10 minutes until browned all over. Pour over the brandy and the wine, bring to the boil and cook for 2 minutes. Add the small pickling onions, beef stock and salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Cover and simmer for 1 hour. Add the mushrooms and parsley and cook for a further 5 minutes.
- Transfer to a warmed serving dish, garnish with olives and thyme and serve immediately with Okra and Tomatoes.
GRAHAM'S HOT TIP:
If you don't have the time or inclination to make a beef stock, just use a stock cube in hot water. But think about making and keeping some stocks in the freezer - you'd be surprised the difference they make.
A Grenache like Chateauneuf du Pape. Deep, full-bodied and a perfect partner to game and cassoulet.
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Other Game Recipes
Venison in Huntsman Sauce is a real winter treat and is well worth the preparation time. Roast venison should always be served with a rich sauce.
Pheasant can be a tricky bird to get just right. It's a game bird, but nowhere near as gamey as goose or pigeon (for example).
There is culinary harmony between the combined flavours of poultry and bacon. This recipe makes the best use of that rapport through its simplicity
